Our day started early with a bus load of girls from Accra Girls School picking us up for a drive to Kukum National Park - about 50 km away, west along the coast. Although it was a short distance, the drive took about 4 hours due to traffic and other various snafus. I guess that's pretty typical, according to our hosts. Along the way we passed through a variety of towns and villages. In this country there's never a lack of refreshments as at every stop sign of traffic snarl there are a gathering of vendors with all sorts of wares on their head eager to see you a taste. At our disposal we could choose from treated water sealed in a plastic bag, fried plantain, tiger nuts, kenke, fresh bananas or pineapple and a wide variety of baked goods. We arrived at Kukum, checked in and climbed the hill/mountain with hundreds of other schoolchildren, all dressed neatly in their uniforms. By the time we reached the top, I was completely wet with perspiration, but these students were all dry and good-natured. They're all so incredibly mannerly and kind. I had some great conversations with students from other schools about their perceptions of American kids and life in Ghana. From what I've observed, the students are very eager to learn and grow and better themselves. They just devour new experiences and ideas.
Kukum basically consists of a series of canopy walks suspended about 100 feet above the forest. It was invigorating to walk along the trail, but many students were quite intimidated. One young man, Prince, was absolutely quaking in his shoes at one of the checkpoints. I promised to help him across and we got there with much prompting and looking UP and discussing biological concepts (anything to get his mind off looking down). He was very sweet and gave me his address so I can send him a note. He wanted to buy me a coconut as refreshment at the end of the trek, but we were short on time.
After Kukum, we headed back toward Cape Coast. The Cape Coast Castle was built by the Portuguese and was maintained as a major trade center for the Atlantic slave trade from about 1600-1807. What an amazing, moving experience! We walked down into the holding cells where thousands of Africans were held for sale and transport to various ports throughout the world. To touch those walls and walk on those stones was mind-blowing......I don't have words to describe it. I hope I'm able to attach some photos so that you can possibly feel their impact.
After setting off from Cape Coast we were hoping to make it back to Accra in 2 hours time. We soon came to realize that 4 hours would be an optimistic goal due to traffic. It was very hot and humid and our bus was full of tired, hot students. I didn't hear a single complaint or whine - except from myself and my colleagues. In fact when the heat and diesel smell and humidity got the worst the girls started singing songs. One of my favorites was about being a "beautiful African woman." It was one of those moments I will treasure in my memory for the rest of my life. These young women are truly beautiful, inside and out. They are learning and growing and empowered. What is frustrating is that they have so few opportunities in this country to use those attributes due to the economy.
We made it back to our hotel around 9 pm. Each of us made a beeline for a cool shower and quick bite at the hotel. Then we all went back to our rooms to do our homework: write a blog, Skype with family, catch up on email, plan for next week, etc. I'm really looking forward to next week. We'll be in classrooms each day. On Sunday our small group of 3 has been invited to have dinner with Osman (one of our host teachers) and his family. He has a small apartment near the school. Then on Tuesday we're having dinner with Jonathan's family in Osu. On Wednesday, Jonathan (our other host teacher) is planning to take us to Aburi Gardens - in the "mountains" just outside Accra. It sounds like they have a very busy week planned for us, so I'd better rest up on Sunday! I hope you're enjoying the blog. Please write and give me feedback- either here or at Melinda.Bennett@mpls.k12.mn.us. I've posted LOTS of pictures on my facebook page that anyone should be able to access. I'd love to hear from you
I will be checking out FB so I can see more pics!! That trek along the tops of the trees would have done me in! you would have had to drag me along to get me to go! Where they held the slaves was incredible! I also love the pic of the "castle," THAT is a beautiful building. Hard to believe that below it was something so awful!
ReplyDeleteCan't wait for the next installment!
Thanks for paying attention. I'm starting to wonder if anyone is reading this stuff - It's part of the assignment associated with the program, but I also want to share this experience with people. I was hoping my students would chime in periodically, but so far, no luck! Thanks for the encouraging comments
ReplyDeleteQuinton would like to know if there are snakes in Ghana.
ReplyDeleteGreat question, Q! I just had this discussion on a very long, hot bus ride with my host teacher. There are cobras, pythons, vipers, and red mambas (nonvenomous) here. I guess they're pretty common in the forest, but I haven't seen any -yet....but if someone else terrorizes the substitute, I may bring one home to show you how disrespected that makes me feel.
DeleteWhat are the opportunities for girls after their public school experience? (Ms. O)
ReplyDeleteAlmost all schools in Ghana are public, but that doesn't mean that they're free. Primary (K-8) is free, but parents pay for uniforms and some book fees. In grade 8 all students take a national exam to see if they qualify for secondary school attendance. About 50% typically qualify to enter secondary school. Of those, 50% will get into the secondary school of their choice - so it's a very competitive system. At this point, you can see that only 25% of the students are enrolled in school. That 25% then chooses an area to specialize in. At Accra GSS, girls can choose to specialize in either business, visual arts, or science. Students then take a total of 8 courses each year: 4 "core" classes which everyone takes, and 4 specialized electives. For example, the girls who specialize in science take core math, core social studies, core language (English) and core science. Then, in addition, they take biology, chemistry, physics and higher maths/phy ed for their entire 4 years. At the end of secondary school, each student takes a final test in the 4 core areas. Depending on her scores, she may qualify to enter the university. Those who graduate from the university will become the doctors, lawyers, teachers, nurses, accountants, graphic designers....the professionals. Everyone else is left to fend for him- or herself. If you work hard and dedicate yourself to your studies, you'll be successful in life. If you're lazy, you'll get what's coming to you......That's how the Ghanaian's see it, anyway.
DeleteIsaiah (a junior) would like to know if you cried when you were in the slave dungeons? Symone would like to know if you cried when the girls sang the beautiful song on the bus.
ReplyDeleteSo far, I've only cried when I heard my students were being unkind to the substitute.....
DeleteYou know, we were being guided through the slave dungeons with a guide who was slightly annoying, so I was a little preoccupied with his demeanor. I think if I had been alone and had time and space to reflect a bit, I might have felt those emotions. I did take a moment to just touch the walls and floors and imagine what those stones would tell me if they could talk. It's a very moving place.
On the bus I wanted to cry, but not because the girls were singing but because we'd been stuck in traffic for 4 hours and the heat and exhaust was making me want to vomit. The only redeeming quality to that trip was the attitude of those girls. Their strength and resilience in the face of adversity is amazing! I have yet to hear a complaint or a gripe or a whine from a single one. They're constantly clustered around me wanting to talk to me and ask questions and carry my bag for me. They LOVE having their photo taken and talking about boys boys boys boys boys boys.......
VeVe would like to know if we can have pen pals?!
ReplyDeleteLydia wants to know what they think of the American lifestyle.
Do the girls live in the dormitories year round, or do they get to go home at certain times of the year? (Sam.)
Love the questions! Keep 'em coming! Yes, we're working on pen pals. Actually, we're working on epals where we work together when we're doing a project and bounce ideas off each other. The intent is to augment the learning happening in our classrooms. I'll be working with the biology teacher here to develop those relationships.
DeleteLydia -- we've had many discussions about American lifestyle and I don't know if there's sufficient space here to explain. Overall, my impression is that they envy the American freedom and choices you have, but they also treasure the national values and respect for family that's so integral to Ghana life. They would like to have freedom to wear what they want to wear, but they also realize that the uniforms allow them to focus on the importance of learning. They want to date boys, but they also deeply respect their families' decision that they not date. They never watch television, so they don't really know what that's all about. Some have cell phones, but aren't allowed to use them on school grounds or during the school day. I think they envy the American lifestyle from afar, but treasure the value of their own lifestyle.
Sam - girls live in the dorms during the academic school year that runs from September until July. Some girls go home on holidays or if there's a family emergency. Most girls stay in dorms the entire school year. Then they go home in July and August.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteCan you please let me know the must see places in Accra?
Iam here only for 3 weeks and basically have the 2 weekends (Sat,Sun) at my disposal. Any inputs will be hihgly appreciated.
Thanks
Pradhan S